Garfield Park

Garfield Park continued...

What this park has today that the others can't match is the Conservatory.

The work of Danish immigrant Jens Jensen, the landscape architect whose influence is seen in all three parks, the Conservatory (1908), at 4.5 acres, is one the nation's largest. It is open to the public -- admission is free -- and within it is a dizzying array of plants, arranged in rooms by climate and type (palms in the moist Palm House, cacti in the arid Desert House, etc.).

But this is more than a huge indoor hothouse.

Jens, in his genius, created living habitats that delight multiple senses: brooks babble; small waterfalls make their soothing sounds. A bird sneaks in, adapts and makes its presence known. Pools host goldfish, provided by the Conservatory -- and the odd turtle provided by visitors.

"Sometimes people ask to see if they can drop them off," explains a member of the staff. "Sometimes, they just drop them off."

People come here expecting to speed through in a few minutes and stay for an hour or more. And it, and the park, are the main reasons for visitors to come to this part of the city.

There are others.

Construction of Our Lady of Sorrows Basilica, on Jackson Boulevard at Albany Avenue, began in 1890 but wasn't completed until 1902. It has survived fire and time and Hollywood (a scene in "The Untouchables" featuring Sean Connery was filmed here in 1987).

Its barrel-vaulted ceiling, murals and, especially, its white marble altar are things of exceptional beauty. There's a full-size replica of Michelangelo's "La Pieta" in the former baptistry; one of its side chapels -- devoted to St. Peregrine, patron saint of cancer patients -- draws visitors from throughout the city and beyond.

As for food, on Madison near Kedzie avenue there is Edna's Restaurant [editor's note: now closed], which has been serving "the finest soul food on earth" for more than 40 years (excellent fried chicken, but don't miss the yams). Four blocks east on Madison, Wallace's Catfish Corner features all kinds of fried fish (catfish, perch, buffalo and more), plus barbecue and soulful specialties.

And there's food for the artistic soul as well: Peek into Legler Library, on Pulaski Road near Monroe Street, and check out the 1934 WPA-funded mural depicting scenes of earliest Chicago; hardcore Frank Lloyd Wright fans can add his 1895 Waller Apartments (2842 W. Walton Ave.) to their checklists; and then there's the Murphy Hill Art Gallery.

The gallery is on the third floor of the massive, old (1905) Sears, Roebuck & Co. headquarters building at 3333 W. Arthington St. (The original, 14-story "Sears Tower" is next door.) The gallery's heart -- and soul? -- may be in North Lawndale, which is just south and is the theme of one of its permanent displays, but its address is within the Garfield Park neighborhood. The free gallery features rotating exhibits of world art, plus works by local artists, plus receptions and classes.

One entire room is devoted to "hand-balanced" sculptures by Sidney Murphy (the "Murphy" of Murphy Hill), which must be seen to be fully appreciated.

Visitors are urged to consider the creative mind of Mr. Murphy -- and recover their own balance back at the Conservatory...

For more information about Garfield Park, please contact the Garfield Park Conservatory Alliance (773.638.1766) or  
Greater Garfield Chamber of Commerce (773.722.6650).