Andersonville

Andersonville continued...

 
(The namesake Anderson, whose name was on an early school and eventually attached to the neighborhood, might actually have been Norwegian. Undeniably Norwegian was explorer Roald Amundsen, whose name is on a neighborhood high school, home of the neighborhood Vikings. But let us not quibble.)

In the new millennium, Andersonville, while still flying the motherland's flag here and there, is classic Chicago.

Modest of style and price, its restaurants reflect that ethnic mix: Turkish, Japanese, Italian, pub-style, Mexican, the aforementioned Persian and Algerian, the inevitable tastes of Sweden (more about that later). Small one-of-a-kind shops (City Olive for all things "olive," Women & Children First book shop, bon bon for chocolates, many others) offer what the chains can't.

Three of the neighborhood's more popular bars couldn't differ more: Hopleaf is pure European and features Belgium's finest brews, plus food including perfect mussels and frites. Up the street, Simon's – the founding Simon was Swedish, of course – began as a basement speakeasy during prohibition (upstairs was a grocery), went legit in 1934 and, aside from its obligatory glogg, is quintessentially American down to its Northwoods murals. A bar called Atmosphere, just north, is a favorite gay dance club.

The Swedes? A few representatives of that earlier era remain.

Erickson's Delicatessen has been supplying Swedish cheeses, herring and meatballs to pilgrims' smorgasbords since 1925. "It's one the last in the neighborhood," says Ann Nilsson, whose mother, Ann Mari Nilsson, owns the place. Lines at Christmastime – some locals, some from distant states – are out the door.

Though the city's one true Swedish restaurant – Tre Kronor – is two miles west in the North Park neighborhood (near Swedish Covenant Hospital and North Park University, also with Swedish roots), two Andersonville restaurants feature some Swedishness: Svea, essentially a breakfast-lunch diner, and Ann Sather, a full-service restaurant (one of a small chain) that long ago replaced the still-missed Villa Sweden, feature a few Swedish items (lingonberries!) to match the decor. The Swedish Bakery can supply a toska torte – or a cannoli.

And during key festivals – notably the mid-summer Midsommarfest – appropriate food and appropriate costumes can be seen.

An essential stop, year round: the Swedish American Museum, which affectionately chronicles the immigrant experience – universal but here, specifically, from Sweden – and the adjustment to a new world, specifically Chicago.

Finally, not a museum but a living experience: Ebenezer Lutheran Church, founded by those Swedish immigrants in 1892 when much of the area was pickle farms. The present sanctuary was completed in 1912, is still very active and "as long as someone's around" is open most days for a peek inside. Do it – and don't miss the model immigrant ship at the doorway near the Swedish-style altar.

"We still have the Swedish heritage here," says the church's Swedish American office clerk Nathan Tolzmann, with pride.

And on Christmas morning: services in Swedish. All – even Norwegians, and especially you – are welcome. Inclusion is what Andersonville is all about.

For more information about Andersonville, please contact the Andersonville Chamber of Commerce (773.728.2995) or the Chicago Area Gay & Lesbian Chamber of Commerce (773.303.0167).